Should you follow along in my knitting and sewing adventures on the blog with some regularlity, you’ll remember that sewing up a Hinterland dress by the talented Meg has been on my list of to-makes for, well, about 18 months. I purchased the fabric and pattern something like last February and there they both stayed for the longest time. Once again a small fear ballooned in my brain until the idea of actually putting scissors to paper and needle to thread seemed too too much against the dreaded unknown of buttonholes and sewing buttons on a garment. I toyed with the idea of a pattern modification to omit the buttonholes, but they really are a key feature of the pattern and really make it the special thing that it is. I thought, “Snaps could be a good substitute!” But resisted the urge to consume more craft supplies in light of the only reason for my consumerism would in fact be the fear of using something I had. I sewed dress after dress and jacket and knitted sweater, took on knit fabrics and gathers and in-set pockets but firmly avoided buttons. (I am very good at procrastinating when I set my mind to it.)
As with 99.99999% of things for which I have an irrational avoidance, one day I woke up and decided that Enough is Enough and I am sewing these buttonholes today. I reasoned with myself, “Just do one step at a time!” and before I knew it, I had sewn my first placket, gathered a little sleeve, and this dress was looking distinctly ready for buttonholes. And then, I just went for it (after a practice or four on some scrap fabric). Turns out, sewing machines are very good at sewing buttonholes and it was over in about five minutes. And wouldn’t you have guessed, I love these little buttons, slightly crooked though they may be, and am very invested in sewing at least two more of this dress, buttons and all.
The fabric is a linen/cotton blend I purchased at a big box fabric store. I did, as is likely obvious, the short version of the Hinterland with sleeves and a half-placket. The only modifications I made for this first version were to omit the bust darts, which I generally dislike, and to include the optional waist ties in the back. With my favorite season quickly approaching and the stash-diving already begun, I’ll next put together a kind of colorblocked version with longer sleeves and a little more length, I think. This pattern is very straightforward for a beginner and I would highly recommend it to those who are in search of a delightful and easy dress to wear at home in these hot final days of summer.
There are so many great indie sewing patterns in the world, sometimes it can be overwhelming to choose which ones to start with as a beginner, or which variation on a basic dress shape you should choose when you get started with an idea. I was introduced to the Artist’s Box Top and Dress by my friend Rae, and had not made this type of dress since I attempted my first Fen dress several years ago. It was a similar shape and I had some thrifted cotton fabric in my stash that I thought would make a great little summery dress.
I kind of rushed to make this first one as I was in my pre-travel make-all-the-things headspace before heading out of town for a trip and wanting some new clothes to take with me, but it still turned out so so cute. The sizes are grouped into three general size ranges, 0-12, 14-22, and 24-32 and I made the dress in the first size range. It was still plenty boxy even though I usually sew a size 10 or 12 in dresses depending on how much ease I’m trying to work in.
When I got back from my family visit with a few new fabrics to my name, the first thing I wanted to make was a second version in a Moda cotton lawn with a floral print that somehow screams spring and summer at the same time. This works because right now in my life I am routinely forgetting that it is August and not, say, April. Time, you thief.
This fabric was also 100% cotton but with an incredible swishy, drape-y factor to it that the first lacked. I also cut in the sides, using the pattern’s directions, about 1.5” on each side of the front and back of the top to make it less voluminous but still boxy. I think I’ve worn it four times in the past week already and added another little decorative stitch on the hem like I did on my Roscoe dress. I feel like the rhythm of my life right now, working from home and with no particular place to go, canning and making and knitting and snuggling on the couch is the exact pace for these casual pieces. I’m actually re-thinking about re-purposing a few of the fabrics I had designated for slightly dressier makes this summer into more flowy and easy shapes because for the forseeable future, that’s what I’m going to want to wear. Clothes that feel and look like “real clothes” but are also comforting and easy.
I’ve gotten a few questions on IG about the pattern - it is called the Artist’s Box Top but does include directions for sewing both a top and a dress, as I have done. My hope is that if you make this dress, you’ll find energy and excitement for what being at home feels like right now in a easy piece to wear. And definitely check out the pattern’s author Taryn who is so creatively inspiring.
Two things I didn’t expect this week: to completely burn out and stop blogging for five days, and to sew two dresses in one week. We are almost half-way through the 100 Day Project and I honestly can’t really explain why but two, three, four days went by and I couldn’t bring myself to write. I thought, “Why am I even doing this? I’m doing it for me, and to get better, and to move forward.” And I realized that it was OK if I took a little break. Sorry for anyone who may have looked for posts in the past few days and none were to be found.
Pretty much right after finishing my Wren, I started cutting out the pattern pieces for this dress. I read the instructions and despite feeling very advanced, the directions were really simple and all techniques I had done before, so I decided to just go for it and tackle it over the long weekend. This was also a PERFECT example of why when I order or purchase new fabric, I wash it so it’s ready to go, and use PDF plotting to just cut out patterns and go. Cutting out those initial process steps is so awesome for my making and really allows me to just focus on the sewing, which is, of course, the best part.
This is the Roscoe View C and I created it out of Brussels Washer Linen from Freeman’s Creative. Decently structured while still having nice shape, it has a really nice yarn-dyed quality and is a really gorgeous berry color that I think will be awesome for all seasons. It feels much more summer than fall right now, and I’ve seen other versions of this dress in flannel that I think I am definitely going to have to duplicate come September. There’s nothing better than a cozy dress to slip into on a cool autumn morning. My measurements would have suggested I make a size 10 according to the pattern instructions, but based on other reviews and the fact that this fabric is not as flows as say, rayon, I actually decided to size down two sizes to keep the bulk from being too much. I think it worked out well and is still oversized and easy.
All in all, the dress only took me about 5 hours to sew. I had some issues with the neckline and had to end up cutting it out twice, and I decided to do French seams for all of the seams instead of using my white serger thread to finish the insides, so that took a little longer but ultimately was a choice I was really happy with. It looks very finished on the inside and I love it. The final detail I chose was to finish the bottom hem of the ruffle with a decorative embroidery stitch built into my machine, making these sweet little flowers all along the hem. Definitely bumps up the Molly Weasley vibes in the best way. :)
So yes, definitely a flannel version for fall in my future, and I would looove to try this in just a super flowy and fluid rayon or viscose that just is all drape to make something really comfy but also a little more dressy. I am almost tempted to use the black viscose I just ordered from Blackbird Fabrics for that purpose, but I realllly want to make another pair of Winslow culottes this summer, so I’m resisting!
It feels good to be back, and I promise I am also still knitting a ton in the midst of all of this time at my machine. I can’t wait to share more soon.
Eek! So happy with this new dress and finishing one of my goals for Me Made May this year. I cut the pieces for this dress out probably 2 weeks ago and then just sat with it, unsewn, until Monday when I needed a refresh in my office space. Cleaning everything up and putting away the remnants of other projects helped with my motivation and I finished it up last night. It’s amazing what a little refresh of your physical space will do for your mental space to be able to be productive.
I mentioned in my first post for my sewing goals for May that I had made a Wren dress already but hadn’t blogged it because I needed to make some modifications to be happy with it. This one went much better, mostly because I had made it once already and also because of the fabric. This is an organic cotton knit from Birch Organics that I purchased at Freeman’s Creative a few months ago and it is just really high quality. It feels soft but not too buttery, so I know it will hold up over time, and is really light and nice.
The only thing I didn’t enjoy about this project was the finishing on the sleeves and collar with the twin needle. I don’t have a separate bobbin holder for a second thread on my top stitching so my thread kept getting tangled, and tightening and breaking. I do like the finished look of a twin needle, so for the future I think I am going to either look into options for a second holder for that thread, or ways to thread the twin needle to prevent tangles.
This is the view B, and the only modifications that I made were to lengthen the sleeve by about 2.5-3” to make it a mid-length sleeve instead of a short sleeve, and to remove about an inch from the back bodice so that it hit my back at the same angle as the front of the dress. As written, it was hitting lower on my back and I didn’t love it.
I really enjoyed this pattern and can see myself making my version of a little black dress in the future. I may also consider raising the back neckline for a winter version as well, as it kind of has a scoop effect to it as written.
All in all, highly recommend this pattern and happy to have it in my wardrobe. I think it will be a versatile piece for dressier evenings, having friends over (someday) and even some outdoor events this summer (Lord willing). Until then, its a super fancy house dress and that’s just fine.
I seriously cannot believe that we are already four days into May. Time in quarantine is so very strange but I am excited for all that May is going to offer us. In honor of Me Made May and wearing handmade, I am focusing this month on mostly completing some garments I have had in my queue for a while, with a few home projects thrown in. This round up also does not include the fabric that I just ordered from Blackbird Fabrics a few days ago since I am not sure what the processing and shipping time will look like for their company right now, particularly since they are based in Canada and I’m here in the US. If that fabric arrives in time, I am excited to add a few more projects to this list for May and probably June.
Garments
AH! I am so stoked to cut into this fabric. I have plans for three garments to complete this month. I basically live in breezy dresses over the summer, and all three of these will fit the bill perfectly. From left to right in the fabric above, I’m planning another Wren dress, a Roscoe dress, and a Hinterland dress.
I sewed my first Wren dress last month (see my goals post and that fabric here) but I have shamefully yet to blog about that piece. It went pretty well, but as I am learning more and more with each project, the fabric matters so much as to whether I will love and wear the finished piece. This is, of course, such a “duh” moment, but it’s really sinking in the more that I invest in beautiful, quality fabrics rather than just picking out what’s on sale and hoping for the best. The floral fabric I sewed the first Wren out of is a really soft double brushed poly I purchased at JoAnn’s. It’s nice, but I had some issues with the fabric in the skirt being way too heavy and probably need to go back and fix it to be really happy with it. For the blue floral above, (purchased a few months ago from Freeman’s Creative), I am going to sew version 2 and lengthen the sleeves by a few inches like I did in my first, but I’ll keep the skirt around knee-length this time. This should also help with the drape of the skirt and prevent pulling on the bodice.
The Roscoe dress will be a new pattern for me but the instructions are incredibly clear and I have no doubt I will love this pattern. This is a berry-colored Robert Kauffman linen blend fabric that I have used for both versions of my Gypsum skirt and I know it will drape wonderfully. I have been really enjoying other sewists’ Wilder gown creations this year, and I think this long dress will be a good test to see whether I’m really into that shape or just like it on others. I’ll be sewing the View C.
The final garment I’ll be tackling is the Hinterland dress by Sew Liberated. I actually bought this fabric, a linen blend from JoAnn’s, a year ago to make this pattern but ended up running out of time over the summer and decided to save it to sew this spring instead. It’s such a great transitional piece for where I live (and Meg is also a NC resident!) and I definitely plan on sewing a version with sleeves later, but for now I think I will do the sleeveless version. I’m also toying seriously with the idea of making this dress with snaps rather than buttons. Something about this fabric just makes me think snaps would look really cool and I’d love to have that as an easy button-alternative for the future. Either way, I will be sewing it with a half-placket of buttons, not full, and will likely remove the bust darts as well.
The fabric I ordered from Blackbird will be destined for a few more exciting summer makes! I plan on sewing the Union St. tee, another Orchid Midi dress, and another pair of Winslow culottes (see my first pair here!) with what is headed my way. Will share more when it arrives.
Home projects
Even though this month’s focus will be primarily on garments, I have a few home projects I want to complete as well.
The first is to finish the second set of curtains I have picked out for my office using that tan and white gingham. I had an incredibly specific vision for what I wanted these curtains to be, and so of course I ended up ordering the fabric to make them myself. It’ll be simple to do, I just need to sit down and complete them! This fabric is from the adorable and appropriately dubbed Kitchen Window Wovens collection by Elizabeth Hartman.
The blueberries fabric from Rifle Paper Co is going to become a few face masks. I’m using the pattern by Ellie Fun Day which is really similar to the State the Label pattern I’ve seen a lot of folks making. To be honest, I am doing this as an act of love towards a few family members and coworkers, but I have had a real mental block with sewing masks. It makes me really sad to sew them and I can’t seem to get much energy behind making them. I think it has to do with using my creativity as a coping mechanism for this time, so I don’t think I will be making that many unless they are needed.
And finally, I am going to stop procrastinating and finally re-cover my sister’s backpack (which she legitimately gave me a year ago to fix, sorry Carrie!). The plan is to cover and/or remove the brown, stained portion of the backpack with this fun vintage upholstery fabric we purchased together while thrifting last year. Mostly I have procrastinated because I’m really intimidated to figure out the best way to approach this, so if you have any tips or tricks please leave a comment.
That is a LOT but I am very excited to have a clean sewing room floor and lots of time ahead to dive into these makes. Here’s to handmade!
I had grand plans to post this yesterday with full details on what I want to work on for #MeMadeMay (starting tomorrow) but c’est la vie. It’s been a busier week than I expected.
The last time that I reorganized my office I made some dedicated space on these shelves for my mending piles. The mending that I do ranges from handmade garments that need modifications, ready to wear garments that need buttons re-sewn, thrifted garments that have been stained and need to be dipped in indigo, and everything in between. The piles are organized by what modifications need to happen, so when I’m feeling inspired to bring these pieces back into my wardrobe, I can knock out all of the buttons being reattached, or the seams that need to be sewn at once.
I’ll confess that I don’t get into these piles (hence, they’re piles and not one or two pieces) as often as I should. I find it to be much more creatively fulfilling to craft new pieces and can find it daunting to try to make good fixes to my clothes. So one of my goals for Me Made May is not only to sew a few new garments that I have picked out, but to make some progress in my mending as well.
How do you organize your mending projects, or do you knock them out as you need to?
Saw it, was inspired by it, made it! That is the story of these hexie coasters and I love them!
As I shared in my April sewing plans post I used this tutorial using a small pack of fabric I have had in my stash for at least three years called “Sleeping Porch” by Heather Ross. The only modification I made was to print the hexagon template at 50% so that it would fit on my pre-cut squares of fabric and would be mug or soda-can sized rather than trivet or Chemex-sized (although I love that and will totally do a larger one later!) and otherwise followed the tutorial as written. I did find it helpful to sew with my needle beginning and ending in the “down” position so that I could make clean turns while quilting each side of the hexagon and while sewing all of the layers together. I also used a chopstick to turn all of the corners out once the layers had been flipped right side out to get those cleaner points.
Highly recommend this for anyone who is looking for a easy, cute, and quick sewing project. Hooray for one project crossed off the list!
I’ve been doing a good bit of sewing this winter, but only some of it has actually made it to my Instagram. Last year I started ordering PDF patterns online and having them printed in large sheets through PDF Plotting and it has been an absolute game. changer. No more fussy tissue paper patterns, no more spending hours tracing a size, then cutting the pattern pieces: instead I cut the pattern pieces out on sturdy printed stock and start cutting my fabric. I’ll usually order a few patterns at once to save on shipping and for patterns with multiple variations, I’ll spend the extra $4 to print two copies so I don’t have to re-trace or modify or reorder later, I just have a second copy ready to be cut differently the next time.
With this new system, I can cut and sew whole patterns in an afternoon. It feels AMAZING. So far this winter I’ve made the Ebony Dress, Wiksten Shift Dress, Wiksten Haori, two Gypsum skirts, and a self-drafted maxi skirt based loosely on this tutorial I found on Pinterest (it turned out so cute). If I’m not trying to do a marathon sewing session, I’ll cut out the pattern pieces and fabric one day, and construct it the next. Next month is Me Made May and I am really happy with the options I’ll have to participate based on the sewing I’ve gotten to do in recent months. And, it is motivating me to work on a few more pieces I would love to wear during the challenge.
In addition to all of the garments I’ve sewn, I’ve also totally caught the quilt bug. Going from garments to quilting has been such a fun and different type of construction and I have at least three quilted projects either in process or planned in my head right now, including a queen-sized quilt to use every day in our master bedroom. Here’s what is in progress this month:
Quilty Table Runner
I had a plan for a quilt top I wanted to construct last fall using some fabrics from Elizabeth Hartman’s fabric collection for her quilt pattern “Norm and Nanette”. It’s the perfect combination of bright, but sweet, and homey. Unfortunately for me, I ran out of the background chambray fabric I was using to construct these blocks of quilt stars and of course, I didn’t write the fabric label down, so I am abandoning my original plan for a lap quilt and turning it into a table runner instead. I still need to purchase the backing fabric (or figure out how to use the quilt block fabric for the back) and purchase batting for this project but if I am able to I think I can finish this up this month!
Wren Dress
I’m excited about the easiness of wearing more knit fabrics this spring and summer, and the Wren Dress is next on my make list for a knit dress. I have two potential knit fabrics that I’d like to make a Wren out of, and think that I will start with the pink floral that I purchased at JoAnn’s before diving into my beautiful Birch Organics blue floral knit (This weird cloudy day photo does not do it justice). I’ll definitely do the version with sleeves and may even try to make it maxi-length if I can finagle the patterning and have enough fabric to do so.
Coasters!
I have not historically been really interested in home decor sewing, but being at home for days on end has made me much more aware of all of the little projects that might be nice to have around while I work. The wood finish on my desk is rather delicate and between a coffee mug, water glass, occasional smoothie, and afternoon tea, I definitely need some more quality coasters in my life. I love this tutorial, and am also considering doing something in the log cabin style. I have a lot of small fabric pieces I could pull together for this which is great.
Queen Quilt planning
This may or may not actually count, since I’m not planning on actually starting to sew this quilt in April, but I would love to figure out how much additional fabric I’m going to need to assemble my eventual queen-size quilt. The plan for the last year has been to slowly collect tiny floral prints that I love to create a patchwork of florals on a plain background. My original thought was sawtooth stars, but I have recently also fallen in love with some simple nine-patch patterns that I think would be gorgeous too. I think finding a more specific pattern with guidelines on fabric would help, or just crunching the numbers on block size vs. finished size of quilt. Laying out all of the fabrics together was also helpful in seeing what additional colors I may want to add to make it feel more “rounded” and complete.
The start of a new season also makes me want to clear out a lot of the mending and re-fashion projects I have sitting waiting to be addressed, and I’d love to build in more time this month to get those off of the shelves and back into my wardrobe. For the amount of time that those projects have been patiently waiting to be attended to, it will almost feel like a new project getting done and new pieces getting added to my wardrobe. I also have the fabric all picked out and ready to go for a Roscoe dress and Hinterland dress but just realistically am not sure I’ll get to them this month.
What are you planning on sewing in April? Any plans for Me Made May? I’d love to know!
